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Curious about dyeing your own yarn? Start with one skein and one colour. This short guide will help you create a solid or gently shaded skein and discover how your yarn takes up the dye.
This method is intended for dyeing wool yarns, including wool and nylon blends, in a pot. Acid dyes colour animal fibres and nylon; cotton, linen and acrylic require a different type of dye. The word “acid” refers to the vinegar or citric acid added to the dye bath. We recommend citric acid: it is easy to weigh and has no vinegar smell. Ordinary white food-grade vinegar is another option.
• 100 grams of undyed wool yarn, in a loosely tied skein.
• Jacquard Acid Dye: for example, 1 gram for your first trial. The amount required depends on the colour and the depth of shade you want; check the instructions for your chosen colour.
• Approximately 5 grams of citric acid per 100 grams of dry yarn: this is our recommended amount. Alternatively, use approximately 15 ml of white food-grade vinegar with 5% acidity (not cleaning vinegar). Use one or the other.
• A roomy stainless steel or undamaged enamel pot, a stable heat source and enough water for the yarn to move freely.
• Precision scales with 0.01-gram resolution, a measuring jug, a stainless steel spoon, a thermometer, a bucket or sink and a mild wool detergent.
• Gloves, safety goggles, an apron and a properly fitting particulate respirator suitable for handling dye powder.
Read the dye label and safety information before use. Avoid breathing in the powder and prevent contact with skin and eyes. Work on a protected, washable surface in a well-ventilated space, away from food. Avoid draughts that could spread the powder. Keep pots, spoons and measuring jugs exclusively for dyeing; never use them for food afterwards. Keep children and pets away. Wear closed shoes, take care with hot water and do not carry hot pots to the sink. Clean up spilled powder with a damp cloth, without stirring up dust.
One skein • one colour • step by step
Weigh the yarn while it is dry. Open out the skein and tie it loosely in several places to prevent tangling. Tight ties can leave white patches. Soak the yarn in cold to lukewarm water for at least 30 minutes, until it is thoroughly wet.
Carefully weigh the powder and dissolve it in a little hot water in a separate measuring jug. Stir until there are no lumps. Fill the pot with enough cold to lukewarm water and mix in the dye solution thoroughly. Do not add citric acid or vinegar yet.
Gently squeeze the presoaked yarn without wringing it. Place it in the pot, making sure it is fully submerged. Move the skein gently to distribute the colour. The yarn needs enough room; do not overcrowd the pot.
Slowly heat the dye bath to approximately 90°C, without boiling. Check with a thermometer and move the yarn very gently from time to time. Avoid vigorous stirring, rubbing and sudden temperature changes, as these can cause wool to felt.
Dissolve the measured citric acid in a little water. If using vinegar, dilute it with a little water instead. Add the solution alongside the yarn, rather than pouring it directly onto it. Distribute gently. Then keep the bath at approximately 85–90°C for about 30 minutes. Move the yarn gently from time to time.
The water will become lighter, but it does not need to be completely colourless. It should be clear, although it may still have a tint. As long as it is not cloudy, this is fine. Cloudy, coloured water remaining in the bath indicates that too much dye has been used, the bath was not hot enough or not enough acid was added.
Turn off the heat and let the yarn cool gradually in the pot. Rinse gently in water at approximately the same temperature. Wash with a mild wool detergent according to its label and rinse again if necessary, until the water stays almost clear. Squeeze out the water without wringing, press gently in a towel if needed and hang the skein to dry.
The colour depends on factors including the yarn, the amount of dye, the temperature and the time. Make a note of your colour, quantities and method. Slight variations in shade are part of hand dyeing. As a precaution, wash your first hand-dyed project separately.
In our beginner’s course, Wol verven met vertrouwen (Dyeing wool with confidence), we practise together, with time for explanations and questions.
Wol met Verve • A short starter guide for wool yarns. Based on our masterclass and the Jacquard Acid Dye stovetop method. For other brands and fibres, follow the relevant instructions.
Jacquard: www.jacquardproducts.com/acid-dye
